Fayetteville is home to a vibrant rock climbing scene, known for its strong, supportive sense of community. Just ask Fallon Cardoza and Patrick Randall, co-owners of Boulders and Brews, the city’s climbing gym located in the Dickson Street Entertainment District. “The climbing culture here is just really inclusive,” Cardoza said. “That’s what’s special about it to me.”
A deep passion for the outdoors also connects local climbers of all levels, with many people taking their gym-honed skills outside. “Everything we do indoors is so we can go outdoors,” Randall said.
Luckily, you don’t have to travel far beyond Fayetteville to find challenging crags and rugged rock faces just begging to be scaled. Here are four great spots to seek those natural highs.
Fitzgerald Mountain
Distance from Downtown Fayetteville: 13 miles
Difficulty: Beginner to Intermediate
Know Before You Go: You must sign a waiver before climbing at Fitzgerald South, which can be accessed here.
Fitzgerald is the closest spot to Fayetteville on this list, and it’s a great place to transition from the gym to real rock. “It’s one of the best local spots for sport climbing and bouldering,” Cardoza said, noting this crag’s accessibility. Set within a mountain biking area, it’s a short walk from the parking lot, and there are tons of permadraws and mussy hooks. “You can just show up with your rope and shoes and start climbing,” Cardoza added.
Lincoln Lake
Distance from Downtown Fayetteville: 18 miles
Difficulty: Beginner to Intermediate
Know Before You Go: Dog-friendly, but no water.
“Lincoln Lake is just this little outdoor oasis,” Randall enthused. Located less than 20 miles west of Fayetteville, this gem of a city park is packed with beginner-friendly climbing routes. Randall noted that the area doesn’t have very tall walls, which makes it ideal for someone’s first foray into outdoor climbing. There are around 40 sport routes, along with moderate-level bouldering on the dam side of the lake. And with opportunities for hiking, biking, fishing, and kayaking, it’s easy to spend a whole day here.
Shepherd Springs
Distance from Downtown Fayetteville: 33 miles
Difficulty: Intermediate to Advanced
Know Before You Go: Not suitable for beginner climbers. Consult Mountain Project for directions and a climbing area map.
About 45 minutes south of Fayetteville, Shepherd Springs offers dozens of mini-adventures for intermediate- and advanced-level climbers alike. You’ll find a range of roughly 40 routes along high-quality stone, most of which are sport climbs. The area is remote and not very trafficked, which can add to the beauty of the experience — provided that you’re a relatively adept climber. Jump in nearby Lake Fort Smith to cool off on a hot day.
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
Distance from Downtown Fayetteville: 68 miles
Difficulty: Beginner to Expert
Know Before You Go: Climbing is $10 per day (camping is $5 per night and cabins are available for varying prices). Dogs aren’t allowed.
Though Horseshoe Canyon is a bit further from Fayetteville than the other spots on this list, no round-up of local climbing destinations is complete without mentioning the region’s starriest attraction. This former dude ranch is a veritable outdoor playground, with biking trails, a zipline, and most notably, some of the best sandstone in Arkansas, with more than 400 established climbing routes (ranging from beginner climbs to advanced-level overhangs) and prime bouldering.
Every September, climbers from across the country gather here for Horseshoe Hell, a five-day festival featuring climbing competitions (including 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell, a full day and night of nonstop ascents), camping, live music, and other revelry. The Ranch’s setting — in the lush heart of the Ozark Mountains, near the Buffalo River — is heaven on earth.
Tips for First-Time Outdoor Climbers
Outdoor climbing near Fayetteville offers new challenges and adventures to climbers of all skill levels. Just be sure to get comfortable in a gym before you venture outside. “Going to a gym is really what will connect you to outdoor climbing. You’ll find like-minded people who can go outside with you and help you,” Cardoza said. At Boulders and Brews, day passes make it easy for newbie climbers to find their footing. The gym also offers punch pass and membership options.
Cardoza also advised downloading the popular app Mountain Project, for guides and maps. Randall suggested getting the latest edition of Cole Fennel’s guidebook Rock Climbing Arkansas, an in-depth account of all the publicly accessible climbing routes in the state.
When you’re ready to take your climbing outdoors, a whole world of diverse, exciting routes awaits you, all within a short drive of Fayetteville.
Justine Harrington is a writer based in Fayetteville.
